On the river cycle paths between Graz and Linz
Our way from Graz to Linz led us along several rivers and their cycle paths: Mur, Mürz, Salza, Enns and Danube. Here we give a small conclusion about these river valley cycle paths:
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The Murradweg is mostly on cycle paths and is mostly well signposted. It only gets tedious with detours. We would have almost landed on the motorway if we hadn’t been familiar with the area. For the first part at the exit from Graz towards the north, we can recommend the left bank of the Mur, as well as an ice stop at the main square of Frohnleiten. As the most beautiful section we have chosen the stretch between Frohnleiten and Mixnitz.
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The Mürztalradweg surprised us very positively. It is led on cycle paths, side roads and partly on an abandoned railway line. The route is perfectly signposted - even with detours - and the restaurant “Röstgraben” in the former railway station in Kapellen as well as the public toilet in Mürzsteg are positive surprises, which one unfortunately rarely finds on more well-known cycle paths of this kind. Unfortunately, the cycle path ends in Mürzsteg, so we had to take the normal road across the Lahnsattel, only having cycle paths to circumvent tunnels. However, the traffic is limited.
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The Salza within the Hochschwab area is a main source of the water supply of Vienna. A museum in Wildalpen can inform you about it. Accordingly the Salza has drinking water quality and the sight leaves no doubt about it: In some places it is crystal clear, in others turquoise blue. The view to the Salza is wonderful and the drive through the Salza valley is a relaxation for the soul, even if there is no cycle path but one drives on the road. The scenic impressions vary between the alpine plateau and the deep mountain stream valley. But one gladly accepts one or the other counter slope. The traffic is moderate, only a certain presence of motorcyclists is noticeable.
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The Ennstal valley is less coinvincing to us. It is missing a cycle path between Landl and Enns. Large parts are led on roads. Between Landl and Großraming we had to cycle on the national road. It is a narrow road taking into account the high traffic volume. Trucks have a hard time passing us. Even oncoming cyclists asked us for help: “Where is the cycle path here?”; the green cycle path signs next to the road are more of a farce than a help in this section. Once again, the landscape and the very cosy little camping site “Großraming-Aschachtal” compensated us. The next day we found the cycle path in Reichraming. But the constant uphill and downhill goes on. If you think that a cycle path should run halfway downhill in the direction of flow, you are wrong at the Ennsradweg. With an astonishing consequence, one pedals several meters over the river in order to enjoy the view for a short time and then to race in a steep descent on river level. Arriving at the bottom, one can already expect after a few meters that it will go uphill again. Only in the area between Steyr and Enns, the route planners had more compassion with the cyclists’ needes. Steyr offers itself as a nice snack stop. One follows only the cycle path signs “push distance by the place” and lands directly before the Würstelstandl at the main place, in order to enjoy a tasty Bosner. However, one has to do without french fries at the moment, as the place on the deep fryer is occupied by the newly introduced cash register. From the Würstelstand you roll over the main square into the narrowness to enjoy perhaps the best ice cream in Austria at the Buburuza. We especially liked apricots.
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The Donauradweg is known to be the cycling motorway of Austria. It makes up for the too much altitude difference of the Enns Valley. Without much effort you can either cycle relaxed along the dam with a view over the wide Danube river or use the opportunity to really get up to speed. In order to avoid the big streams of cyclists, we recommend to choose the southern bank of the river between Enns and Linz. The distance between the two cities is also astonishingly short, so that we arrived at Katharina’s mother’s house on Friday at 6 p.m. - one hour earlier than planned and in any case in time for our surprise.